After the dense smoke of yesterday afternoon and evening, this morning skys were mostly sunny with only a light haze. Last night's light rain and favorable wind conditions had cleared out the worst of the smoke and we were now past the active fire area. As I (since I soloed all day I'll use I instead of we in describing the day) began pedaling, the sound of the whitewater river on my right and the sight of fluffy white clouds drifting along the canyon walls made for an idyllic setting. Combined with the light traffic and good road condition, this was definitely starting out to be one of my most pleasurable cycling experiences - and it just kept going and going for almost the entire day.
For the first 20 miles HIghway 12 followed the north bank of the Middle Fork of the Clearwater River until reaching the point where the Lochsa and Selway rivers merge to form the Clearwater. I then found myself next to the beautiful Lochsa River for the next 60+ miles. The Lochsa has been rated one of world's best continuous stretches of whitewater - the river and surrounding canyon are magnificent and completely unspoiled by humans. If Highway 12 was not there, it would look exactly as it did at the time of Lewis and Clark; and as it did when only the Nez Perce inhabitated the area for centurys before that. And until the early 60's Highway 12 was not there - it was one of the last two lane highways completed in the U.S. For anyone looking for a scenic drive, I highly recommend this stretch of Highway 12 - but make sure your gas tank is full and forget about using your cellphone.
At mile 80 the road began rising above the river and the climb up to LoLo Pass in the Bitterroots began. Aided by a strong tailwind the climb (with grades up to 9%) was relatively easy. However, part way up a cold rain started with a few rumbles of thunder. Bcause the rain was at my back, I decided not to put on my rain jacket (which I had wisely put in the back pouch of my jersey at lunchtime) for fear of overheating on the climb - probably an unwise decision. I was wet and cold by the time I reached the summit at 5,233 feet where I belatedly put on my jacket. The ensuing 7 mile descent to the hotel at LoLo Hot Springs was no fun. I was very cold and my hands were numb and cramped from continuously squeezing the brakes in an attempt to descend slowly (<15 mph) on the treacherous wet road. Some of the later riders who did not carry a rain jacket ended up in the van because they were just too wet and cold to continue - at least my belated use of the rain jacket kept me in the game to the finish line.
I made it safely to the hotel and opted for a long, hot shower instead of the 103 degree heat of the hot springs. It was a great day of riding even with the wet, cold finish - and my "3 flat morning" (I've now had 7 flats on the trip to date). Tomorrow is a "rest and recovery" day with an easy downhill 37 mile ride into Missoula where we will also spend our Day 10 rest day.
Steve
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